Travels in East and South Turkey

Introduction

Turkey has a rich archaeological and historical heritage. Ancient and medieval sites dot the country and yet most visitors content themselves with the west coast and, if time permits, central Cappadocia. It is not hard to see why. Turkey is large and it takes several trips to see it properly and the west coast has some splendid offerings while being more accessible for short-stay visitors.

However, for those that do not miss the tourist bazaars and drinks by the swimming pool, then an attempt should be made to travel to the east of this spectacular country.

Long off tourists’ radars due to the perceived threat from Kurdish disquiet, the east is a jewel waiting to be discovered. Now politically quiet and welcoming of travellers, eastern Turkey is a must for any of us who travel with an eye to history and archaeology.

There are an amazing variety of historical sites to be found there. While the west is dominated by the Greco-Roman/Ottoman period, the east provides these, plus the world’s oldest church, Iron age Urartian sites set in spectacular mountain scenery and beautifully carved Seljuk monuments still standing proud on the high steppes so loved by their creators.

The photos below were taken on a 2002 trip. They begin on Turkey’s southern coast before moving to the east around the region of Lake Van.

This is just the highlights of a region that offers fantastic scenery and stunning historical sites. I hope they whet your appetite!

Ben Churcher

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PART 1: TURKEY: THE SOUTH COAST

PART II: TURKEY: THE MESOPOTAMIAN UPLANDS

PART III: TURKEY: THE LAKE VAN REGION

The ‘Roman’ Harbour at Antalya on Turkey’s southern coast. The visible walls date to the Ottoman period while the fluted minaret in the middle of the photo dates to the Seljuk period (13th century). The harbour would have been used in the Roman period beginning with Pompey the Great who cleared this coast of pirates.

To the west of Antalya lies the ancient land of the Lycians who inhabited Turkey’s south-west corner during the Iron and Classical periods. At Myra, famous as the home of St. Nicholas, they carved these elaborate tombs into the surrounding cliff-face. In antiquity wooden stairs and platforms would have provided access to what would have been family tombs.

North of Antalya is the lofty home of the Pisidians at Termessus. Now a spectacular ruin scattered along the mountain ridges, the classical period city had a wonderfully located theatre. Termessus’ claim to fame is that even Alexander the Great did not attempt to lay siege to this city as its natural defences were too daunting.

One of the world’s best-preserved Roman theatres is at Aspendos. Although a degree of reconstruction has taken place, the vast majority of the monument has been re-erected using the original stones. This style of architecture shows the fully-evolved Roman style of theatre. The Greek-style stage is gone and in its place an elaborately-built stage building with doors and windows that could be utilised by the actors.

Along the south coast of Turkey are numerous reminders of the strategic importance of this coast as it lay between the markets of the Middle East and Rome. To facilitate the ship-borne trade, many relatively small, but wealthy, cities flourished. One such city is Anemurium - now a ruin but once boasting bath houses, aqueducts and, as pictured here, an Odeon (a small roofed theatre) often used for music and poetry.

At the eastern end of Turkey’s south coast is Tarsus, famous the birthplace of St Paul. Tarsus is also known as the city where Alexander the Great fell gravely sick before the Battle of Issus and the site of a love-tryst between Antony and Cleopatra. Recent archaeological work has uncovered some of the Classical city. In this case a first century AD well and associated house. Nearby a well-preserved stretch of the main Roman-period road lies excavated.

Please select another section

PART II: TURKEY: THE MESOPOTAMIAN UPLANDS

PART III: TURKEY: THE LAKE VAN REGION